Villajoyosa: A Town Where the Sea Smells of Chocolate and Saffron
The Costa Blanca is known for its endless beaches and bustling resorts, but there is one place along this coast that stands apart. Villajoyosa (affectionately called La Vila by locals) is more than just a picturesque spot south of Benidorm. It is a town with a unique cultural DNA, where a history of seafaring intertwines with an industrial legacy of confectionery, creating an exceptional gastronomic landscape. Here, the colorful facades compete with the azure sea, and in the mornings, the air is filled with the aroma of roasted cocoa beans. This guide is for those seeking authentic flavors hidden behind the vibrant tourist postcard.
In this article, we will take a deep dive into Villajoyosa’s culinary culture: from the secrets of chocolate dynasties to the fish market auctions, from humble taverns to fine dining restaurants recognized in prestigious guides.
Colorful Architecture and Gastronomic Geography
Before discussing food, it’s impossible not to mention the backdrop of this gastronomic stage. The town’s signature feature is its colorful suspended houses along the Amadorio River and, of course, the famous waterfront facade. Legend has it, shared by every local, that homes were painted in bright hues—indigo, terracotta, ochre, emerald—so that fishermen returning from long trips could spot their houses from afar and know they were expected. This practical solution turned the town into one of Spain’s most photogenic corners.
Villajoyosa’s gastronomy is equally vivid. It is built on two pillars: the bounty of the sea (the town has one of the most significant fishing fleets in the Valencian Community) and the chocolate industry, which paradoxically flourished in a place where cocoa trees never grew.
The Chocolate Empire: La Vila’s Sweet Legacy
Villajoyosa rightfully holds the title of “Chocolate Capital” of the region. The story began in the 17th century when captains of local ships brought exotic goods from the Americas—cocoa beans. The rocky, infertile soil around the town forced locals to get creative, using their homes as workshops. They manually ground cocoa on curved stones called “metates,” producing a product that soon captivated all of Spain.
By the 19th century, over 30 small factories operated here. Today, fewer remain, but they have become true temples of taste, famous worldwide. A visit to Villajoyosa is incomplete without stopping by the town’s “three chocolate pillars.”
1. Valor: The Chocolate Giant with Soul
The Valor brand is arguably the most famous Spanish chocolate in the world. Its factory in Villajoyosa is a large modern facility that still honors its roots. The Valor Chocolate Museum (Museo del Chocolate Valor) is one of the most visited industrial museums in the country.
Visiting is a journey through time. You begin at the historic Lopez family mansion, founders of the dynasty (1881), walk through halls of vintage equipment, and see the evolution of packaging and advertising. The tour culminates with a glass walkway over the active production floor. The aroma is so rich it feels almost edible. You witness the entire bean-to-bar process: roasting and grinding beans, tempering, and packaging by robots.
Special attention should be given to their whole Marcona almond chocolate line and, of course, the classic hot chocolate served in the museum café—a thick, luscious drink perfect for dipping crispy churros.
Contact Information:
Address: Avinguda Pianista Gonzalo Soriano, 13, 03570 La Vila Joiosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 966 81 04 51
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2. Chocolates Pérez: Guardians of Tradition
If Valor represents scale and technology, Chocolates Pérez is a story of craftsmanship and family. Founded in 1892, this factory remains faithful to traditional methods. They still produce a unique type of chocolate—“chocolate a la piedra” (stone-ground chocolate).
This chocolate is special because the cocoa beans are ground, but the mass does not go through the long conching process (mixing at high temperatures) that makes modern chocolate smooth and melt-in-your-mouth. The result is a bar with a grainy texture, where sugar crystals and the raw intensity of cocoa are distinctly felt. It is often used to make thick hot chocolate at home. Additionally, Pérez is one of the few who roast cocoa beans over almond wood, giving the final product a subtle smoky aroma.
Contact Information:
Address: Avinguda de Finestrat, 78, 03570 La Vila Joiosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 633 97 34 81
Website: chocolatesperez.com
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3. Chocolates Clavileño
The third essential stop. Clavileño specializes in chocolate for culinary use (chocolate familiar) and is a staple in households across Valencia. Their museum is smaller but cozy and homely. The factory shop offers rare bars not found in supermarkets, including sugar-free chocolate with local superfood additions.
Contact Information:
Address: Partida Torres Nte., 14A, 03570 Villajoyosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 965 89 07 78
Website: chocolatesclavileno.com
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The Sea on Your Plate: Port, Market, and Salted Delicacies
Leaving the sweet aromas behind, we head to the sea. Villajoyosa’s port is not a marina for millionaire yachts—it’s a working harbor. Every day, dozens of trawlers leave for the sea and return around 4:00 PM with the day’s catch. This rhythm defines the menus of local restaurants.
Fish Auction (La Llotja)
At the heart of the port is La Llotja, where wholesale fish auctions take place. Unlike many other ports, where public access is strictly forbidden, tourists in Villajoyosa can witness this fascinating ritual. During certain hours (usually in the late afternoon, when boats return), visitors can watch fish being sorted and auctioned. Crates of the freshest shrimp, monkfish, squid, and octopus slide along conveyor belts as prices rapidly drop on digital displays (Dutch auction style) until a buyer presses the button.
Here reigns the “Gamba Roja” (red shrimp)—the queen of deep waters—and “Peix de la Vila,” a quality brand guaranteeing that fish is caught by local boats and never frozen.
Contact Information:
Address: Casa del Mar, Av. del Puerto, 37, 03570 Villajoyosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 965 89 02 00
Website: cofradiapescadoreslavila.com
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Central Market (Mercat Central)
For those wishing to take home delicacies, the road leads to the Central Market. The building itself is a beautiful example of early 20th-century architecture, resembling a medieval castle with crenellated walls. Inside, a bounty awaits.
Pay special attention to the salted fish section (Salazones). Villajoyosa, like all of Alicante, is famous for its fish curing culture—a legacy of Phoenicians and Romans.
What to look for:
- Mojama: Dried tuna loin, dense and dark-red, sliced paper-thin and drizzled with olive oil.
- Huevas de Maruca: Salted and pressed fish roe with a strong marine flavor.
- Budellet: Salted fish entrails—a delicacy for adventurous gourmets, often served as a tapa with an aperitif.
Contact Information:
Address: Carrer Canalejas, s/n, 03570 La Vila Joiosa, Alicante
Phone: +34 965 89 00 13
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Iconic Dishes: What to Order in a Restaurant
Villajoyosa’s cuisine is “Mar i Muntanya” (sea and mountain). The proximity of fertile lands (huerta) and the sea creates remarkable combinations.
1. Arròs amb Fessols i Naps (Rice with Beans and Turnip)
While rice is a religion in Valencia, this dish stands apart. It is an “arroz meloso” (creamy, broth-infused rice) cooked in deep clay pots. The flavor base is a rich pork broth with white beans and turnip pieces. The turnip adds subtle sweetness and softens the richness of the meat—perfect for a chilly day.
2. Borreta de Melva
A traditional stew that was once peasant food and now served in top restaurants. Ingredients include potatoes, spinach, dried ñora peppers, and salted fish pieces (usually mackerel or skate). Served with a poached egg broken directly into the hot dish, creating a thick sauce.
3. Pebrereta
A truly summer dish. A vegetable stew where green peppers, tomatoes, and very young zucchini (used whole while the skin is still tender) take center stage. Dark tuna meat (“sangacho”) is added. It is eaten with pieces of fresh bread.
4. Nardo Vilero
You cannot leave without trying Nardo. This coffee cocktail was invented by Villajoyosa residents. The classic version (“Nardo caldero”) is hot coffee with absinthe. The most popular version, served on terraces, is an iced granizado of black coffee mixed with a shot of absinthe. Anise and coffee create a refreshing and invigorating flavor, perfect for a siesta.
Restaurant Guide: From Classics to Modern Interpretations
It is hard to eat badly in Villajoyosa, but some places guarantee a gastronomic delight.
Hogar del Pescador
The flagship of Villajoyosa gastronomy. Originally a port canteen for sailors, it is now an elegant restaurant with white tablecloths and impeccable service. Located at the port entrance, it is famed for its fish and seafood. The fresh catch display at the entrance resembles a jewelry showcase.
Must-try: seafood platter (Mariscada) or the signature “Caldero”—fish served separately on a tray, and rice cooked in the same broth on the side, allowing the pure taste of each ingredient.
Contact Information:
Address: Av. del Puerto, s/n, local 3, 03570 Villajoyosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 965 89 00 21
Website: hogardelpescador.com
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Ca Marta
A bit further along the port avenue, Ca Marta represents stability and quality. The chef excels in rice dishes. The interior is maritime-themed, tasteful and elegant. Favored by local families for Sunday lunches.
Recommended: “Arroz a banda” (rice cooked in fish broth) and perfected croquettes with various fillings. Excellent wine list highlighting Alicante DO wines.
Contact Information:
Address: Av. del Puerto, 37, 03570 Villajoyosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 966 85 34 42
Website: restaurantecamarta.es
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Zerca
For those seeking modern interpretations, Zerca offers “market-inspired signature cuisine.” Menus change with the season and the morning market finds.
Dishes include tuna tartare with mango, vegetable tempura with honey, and grilled octopus with potato mousse. A gastrobar with relaxed vibes and creative presentation.
Contact Information:
Address: Carrer Colón, 21, 03570 La Vila Joiosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 691 60 51 29
Website: zercafoods.online/carta
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Taverna El Pòsit
A tribute to traditional tapas. Small, cozy, tucked away in the alleys near the waterfront. Visitors come to nibble on various snacks rather than a long multi-course meal.
Highlights: steamed mussels, fried baby squid (chipirones), homemade meatballs (albondigas), and fresh bread with tomato and alioli.
Contact Information:
Address: Av. del Puerto, 23, 03570 Villajoyosa, Alicante, Spain
Phone: +34 966 85 15 19
Website: www.chefs-voice.com/es/el-posit-taverna-valenciana
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Gastronomic Events: When to Visit
For the full experience, plan your trip around one of the main events:
- Xocolatíssima (Summer): Chocolate festival with tours, tastings, and workshops throughout the city.
- La Mostra de Cuina Marinera (Spring): Gastronomic week where local restaurants offer special tasting menus focused on seafood at a fixed price—a great way to enjoy fine dining affordably.
- Fiestas de Moros y Cristianos (Late July): A historical celebration featuring a beach landing; gastronomy plays a major role with streets filled with the aroma of paella cooked in giant open flames.
Practical Tips
Siesta: Villajoyosa follows traditional schedules. Restaurant kitchens close at 4:00 PM and reopen at 8:00 PM. Only cold snacks and ice cream are available in between.
Reservations: For popular spots like Hogar del Pescador or Ca Marta on weekends and holidays, book 3–5 days in advance.
Souvenirs: The best keepsakes are a Pérez chocolate bar in retro packaging and a jar of local almond cream.
Conclusion: Why You’ll Return to La Vila
Villajoyosa is a rare resort that has preserved its soul despite mass tourism. The town doesn’t try to appear better than it is—it already has everything. History here is not dull textbook dates but the taste of fresh “Arròs amb Fessols,” the aroma of roasted cocoa, and salt on your lips after strolling past the colorful facades.
The town moves at its own pace. Food is a ritual, not fuel. Walk the colorful streets, inhale the scents of sea and chocolate, and let the town tell you its delicious story.
A visit here is a lesson in hedonism—enjoying simple pleasures: morning coffee with a sea view, a piece of quality chocolate, and a chat with a family tavern owner. Leaving Villajoyosa, you’ll take home not only vibrant photos but a lasting desire to return and savor again the unique taste where the bitterness of dark chocolate perfectly meets the Mediterranean salt.
